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  • The Oldest Restaurants

    In a food city like New Orleans, restaurants often employ vigorous marketing campaigns to try to lure tourists and locals. One of the most successful claims is the longevity of an establishment. The five oldest restaurants in New Orleans claim origin dates from 1840–1914. Several of the restaurants actually do go back to the 19th century. But what did I verify in the documentation? Here are the five oldest restaurants in New Orleans, their claimed founding date, and what I could document.

    If you’re wondering if I recommend any of them, I recommend ALL of them. I’ve included their reservation line also.

    Antoine’s Restaurant 1840 vs. 1861

    Reservations: https://antoines.com/reservations

    The founding date is 1840 in the legends, but the earliest I could pinpoint it was 1865 at 50 St. Louis, present day 501 Royal. However, that article is about moving from St. Peter Street to St. Louis Street, so it definitely existed before 1865.

    They moved to the current location in 1874, but Antoine Alciatore purchased the property in 1868, according to the Vieux Carre Digital Collection. The earliest reference I could find to the 1840 opening was an ad from 1904. In 1898, they advertised the established date as 1848.

    This one deserves a much deeper dive than I’ve done here, but, for now, the earliest documented date I found is in the 1860s.

    • L'abeille De La Nouvelle-Orléans Mon, Dec 18, 1865 ·Page 1
      L’abeille De La Nouvelle-Orléans Mon, Dec 18, 1865 ·Page 1
    • L'abeille De La Nouvelle-Orléans New Orleans, Louisiana · Sunday, November 08, 1874 page 1
      L’abeille De La Nouvelle-Orléans New Orleans, Louisiana · Sunday, November 08, 1874 page 1

    Tujague’s Restaurant 1856 vs. 1874

    Reservations: Open Table

    While Tujague’s is celebrating its 170th anniversary in 2026, 1856 is before Tujague became a restauranteur. The 1858 directory shows that Guillaume was still a butcher in the French Market.

    Tujague is a barkeeper at 215 Decatur, a couple of doors down from the historic corner spot, by the 1880 census. Tracing the directories, censuses, and other records shows that 1874 is a safe founding date for Tujague’s. I created a video with more of the documentation and more about Dutrey’s and Begue’s, the predecessors to Tujague’s.

    Commander’s Palace 1880 vs. 1893

    Reservations: Resy

    There is a gorgeous tile mural in the entryway of Commander’s Palace proclaiming the establishment in 1880. However, a historian discovered that the actual founding date was 1893. Commander’s actually admitted their mistake in 2015. They celebrated with a themed cocktail called the Oops.

    Galatoire’s Restaurant 1905 vs. 1905

    Reservations: Resy

    The documentation supports the 1905 opening date of the Galatoire’s Restaurant on Bourbon Street. However, Galatoire was in New Orleans at least 20 years earlier than typically claimed. I made a video about Galatoire’s forgotten years in New Orleans below.

    Napoleon House 1914 vs. 1914

    Reservations: Not accepted

    Napoleon House is in one of the oldest buildings in the French Quarter, dating to 1794 with a major update in 1814. But the date of the founding of the restaurant seems to be off by a little bit. Or does it?

    They claim that the Impasto family purchased the building in 1914. However, the Vieux Carre Digital Survey shows that it was 1920 when Giuseppe and Salvatore acquired the property. A 1905 photo clearly shows Joseph Labourdette Family Grocery painted on the overhang. He was here until about 1908 and then moved to another location. According to New Orleans Magazine, the Impasto brothers did start operating out of this location in 1914, even if they didn’t purchase it until 1920, based on directory evidence they found.

    Arthur P. Lamazou was a saloonkeeper at 500 Chartres in 1914. Anthony Sidney was a shoemaker at 506 Chartres. By 1915, Joseph Impasto has a saloon at 500 Chartres.

    Soards New Orleans City Director for 1914 page 654
    Soards New Orleans City Directory for 1914 page 1051
    Soards New Orleans City Directory for 1915 page 534

    While I could not find the Impastos in the directory at all in 1914, it’s reasonable to assume that he started operating in 1914 if he managed to get in the directory by 1915. It’s even possible to think that maybe Lamazou became Impasto as their business and home addresses match in both directories. So we’ll call this one verified too.

    1905

    The Oldest Restaurants?

    If this is the actual oldest documentation, like I’m fairly sure it is for Tujague’s, the changes in these dates do not change the five oldest restaurants in New Orleans. Antoine’s is still the oldest, even if it was founded a couple of decades later. Tujague’s is still the second oldest. And all still float in a haze of Old New Orleans with their own unique vibes to indulge. Go visit and let me know if you agree.

    Lea Pearl

    • Architecture
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  • The French Market, Bulbancha, and Zero Waste Crafts

    During these slow summer months, I’ve been working on updates to this site. After more than six months without any articles, I finally published some research I had been sitting on for over a year.

    I’ve been focusing on creating new YouTube videos over the past few months, so I have several scheduled. I’d love your subscription over there. I have an update of my biography of Jean Galatoire coming in September. I also have a video about the first Stormin’ the Sazerac and what actually happened in September.

    In October, I have planned videos every week starting with a video about 1331 First St in the Garden District, The Dark Origin of Columbus Day, The History of Lower Decatur, and a custom full city tour focusing on the Corn Stalk fences.

    I’d also love some accountability to help me finish my two in-progress series — The Real Storyville and The Irish of New Orleans. I have a few more videos to research to complete those projects — Lulu White, Willie Piazza, the Irish Channel, and the rest of the Garden District.

    The Slow Summer

    I’ve also been using the summer down time to create some projects with my hands. I’m turning grocery bags into grocery bags. One of my favorite hobbies is crocheting. My grandmother crocheted intricate snowflakes and doilies (fine work that I do not yet have skills for). In addition, one of the skills that women were taught in the early colony was crocheting. So crocheting makes me feel in touch with my ancestors on many realms.

    I’m particularly fond of turning plastic trash into material to crochet. Plarn from plastic grocery bags makes an excellent reusable grocery bag. I use a pattern called a French Market Bag to create my plarn crochet bags. This is not referring to the French Market in New Orleans, but the markets in France where bags like this are used. But in New Orleans, French Market only means one thing.

    French Market < Bulbancha

    The location of the French Market in New Orleans, or the high ground in the bend in the Mississippi River, is likely the place where the trading post known as Bulbancha was located before the Europeans colonized New Orleans. In his article about Bulbancha for 64 Parishes, Jeffery Darensbourg wrote, “There were large cities on the Mississippi River before Europeans arrived, but Bulbancha was not one of them.”

    It wasn’t a big cosmopolitan town, possibly because it floods here and is prone to bad storms, but it was the Place of Many Tongues, or the place where you can find people who speak different languages, according to Darensbourg.

    So in honor of those natives to this land, who knew thousands of years before my ancestors arrived (to literally live on Chippewa Street and then Choctaw Road) that this place was special, I’m calling my crocheted bags Bulbancha Bags.

    Some Creative Ways I’ve Made Money Over the Summer

    Summer is a notoriously difficult time in the tourism culture of hurricane-land. So I’ve been trying to get creative to supplement the jobs that don’t exist.

    One of my less lucrative experiments is selling aluminum cans for recycling. Cans are still one of the most endlessly recyclable things, and we are not very good at recycling in New Orleans. I stash cans and then periodically bring them to sell, largely to ensure they are actually recycled. I figure if they are giving me money for it, then they are making more money on it. I last sold cans in December 2025. Seven months of cans earned me $6.55. The largest haul I had was a four year accumulation during COVID that netted me $20.

    I also received a commission to take some photos in New Orleans for an artist who is pregnant and on travel restrictions. I love receiving interesting research projects or commissions like this. I’ve researched dogs, duels, and Storyville. I’ve designed brochures for tour companies. I’ve helped with design details for weddings. I love jobs like these, so please let me know if you need my help!

    Bulbancha Bags

    Now I’m selling these handmade bags! I have six available currently, all for $35. The sizes vary, but one is decidedly smaller than the others. They are all unique and available in my Shop. These bags take at least 20 hours to make, not including cutting the plastic into strips. I posted a Short on YouTube if you’re interested in the process of turning grocery bags into grocery bags. I’ve also included little charms on the bags. The charms are made of recycled materials or things I found as well and provide an easy place to clip your keys or maybe a wallet.

    Right now, these are only available for local pick up/drop off, so please let me know if you want one. I am grateful for your support as we dodge the raindrops and try to stay cool.

    Lea Pearl

    • Architecture
    • Bulbancha
    • Cast Iron
    • Catholic New Orleans
    • Family History
    • Food
    • French Quarter
    • Garden District
    • Gay New Orleans
    • Ghosts of New Orleans
    • Hurricanes
    • Italian/Sicilian New Orleans
    • Le Grippe
    • Mardi Gras
    • Museum
    • New Orleans
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    • Royal Street
    • Storyville
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    • United States
  • Lulu White’s Obituary

    While working on my research about Storyville for my video series, I found something interesting. I didn’t know much about Lulu White, so I didn’t realize a July 1931 obituary would be strange because the state of Louisiana says she died in August 1931.

    There is no biography of Lulu White written in English. The only one I’ve found was written by Al Rose in French in 19911. We know she was born in Alabama and came to New Orleans when she was young. She worked in brothels to survive. Lulu seems to have been a marketing genius (I’ll explore my thoughts on that in a future article). She produced a directory for her house, Mahogany Hall, in 1898, which is the earliest known directory for Storyville. The later directories were produced by Tom Anderson and are known as Blue Books.

    Lulu was known for her house of “octoroons” or mixed race women. She was also known for extravagance with the first elevator in the District. She wore a red wig and a diamond alligator brooch wrapped around her neck. In Storyville by Al Rose, the Fancy Man recounts his father taking him to Mahogany Hall to lose his virginity. It was where the men who thought of themselves as high society went. Lulu was eventually pardoned by the president of the United States.

    But even with all the notoriety she gained, she died penniless by most accounts, and her death is particularly mysterious. According to the state of Louisiana, she died on August 20, 1931. But there is a legend that she was seen withdrawning money at a bank in 1941.

    When Did She Die?

    I started researching my typical way — searching the newspaper archives for any articles about her. After a few hours of clipping, I decided to see when she died to know how much further I had to go.

    Ahhh 1931. I was already at 1929. I got to the article about her death, and I went to Wikipedia to see where to go next.

    Death: August 20, 1931. Hmmm….the article I clipped was published in July 1931.

    Lulu White’s obituary
    The New Orleans States, July 26, 1931, p6

    There is no doubt who this article is referring to. I wish they said who the reports came from as I haven’t found any other newspaper articles about her death.

    So When Did She Die?

    I flipped to the section about Lulu in Spectacular Wickedness2. Emily Landau cites the court case pending against her that had a note about her death dated August 21 to show that she died in August 1931. The citation for her death certificate reads, “Death Certificate of Lulu White, shown to the author by Shelley Johnson Carey, who retains possession of it.” This seems very strange to me because Louisiana death certificates are public record and easily searchable in an online database.

    If you search the Secretary of State historical vital statistics, you can see that Lula Hardtner White is recorded as dying on August 20, 1931. Hardtner??? I thought her name was Hendley3…That’s another rabbit hole for another day…as far as I know (and I would love to learn otherwise!) Louisiana has not digitized death certificates yet.

    You can request your own uncertified copy for $5. But I didn’t have to do that because I found Lulu’s Alabama death record on Ancestry.com using the familial details in Dr. Landau’s book4.

    She died on June 23, 1931, and5 was buried on June 24, 1931, in Selma, Alabama. Her birthday was August 14, 1886. Her spouse was Philmore White, father was Robert Hendley, and her mother was Amanda Tipton.

    Is this Lulu?

    Perhaps 1886 is a transposition error. Or perhaps Lulu was 14 when she’s first recorded in the 1900 census in New Orleans. Unfortunately, it wasn’t unusual to have children working in the District. An 1886 birth date would explain why Lulu doesn’t appear in the 1870 census, as noted by Dr. Landau. Dr. Landau doesn’t mention the 1880 census, and I couldn’t find her record there either. Makes sense if she wasn’t born yet. The 1890 census was destroyed in a fire. In 1900, she claims she was born in 1868, which would make her 32 years old. If she was actually born in 1886, she was only 14.

    Lulus in the Newspaper

    The first I found Lulu White in the newspaper was 1888 at No. 3 Basin Street.

    The Times-Democrat, Thu, May 24, 1888, Page 3
    The Times-Democrat, Fri, May 08, 1891, Page 3

    Then, in 1891 she has the 166 Customhouse address. The first she appears in the city directory is 1893, that I can find. She would have been five and eight in these instances if she was born in 1886. This is what makes me think 1886 is some kind of error or the wrong person.

    There are two people with similar names in the 1893 directory, Lula and Lulu. In addition, Lulu/Lula White appears in the newspaper and census records across the country during the span of Lulu’s life. It was a common name. Maybe I found the death record for another beloved Lulu in Alabama.

    Either way that obituary is definitely talking about the Diamond Queen of the Demimonde. It provides another document to give us a glimpse into her life. Perhaps her sister was trying to hide her real age on her death certificate. Perhaps she was so forgotten that no one cared enough to get it right. Perhaps Lulu was actually a child when she entered the underworld in New Orleans. All are equally likely, but I’m glad someone felt moved to document her passing.

    1900 Federal Census entry for Lulu White at 235 N. Basin St
    Screenshot

    Sources

    1.  Al Rose. Miss Lulu White de Basin Street, Nouvelle Orléans. Paris: Gaston Lachurie, 1991. ↩︎
    2. Landau, Emily. Spectacular Wickedness: Sex, Race, and Memory in Storyville, New Orleans, LSU Press © 2013. ↩︎
    3. Landau, Emily. “Lulu White,” 64 Parishes, March 15, 2011, updated September 26, 2023, accessed December 28, 2024. https://64parishes.org/entry/lulu-white ↩︎
    4. “Lulu Hendley,” FHL Film Number 1908489. Ancestry.com Alabama, U.S. Deaths and Burials Index, 1881-1974. ↩︎
    5. Does it mean anything that Lulu died on St. John’s Eve? ↩︎

    Lea Pearl

    • Architecture
    • Bulbancha
    • Cast Iron
    • Catholic New Orleans
    • Family History
    • Food
    • French Quarter
    • Garden District
    • Gay New Orleans
    • Ghosts of New Orleans
    • Hurricanes
    • Italian/Sicilian New Orleans
    • Le Grippe
    • Mardi Gras
    • Museum
    • New Orleans
    • New Orleans Fires
    • New Orleans Voodoo
    • Notes from the Field
    • Royal Street
    • Storyville
    • Traditions
    • Uncategorized
    • United States
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New Orleans Deep Tours

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lea@noladeeptours.com

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