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  • A Tale of Irish in New Orleans

    Museum Review: New Canal Lighthouse Museum

    March is Louisiana’s Irish American Heritage Month, and my personal immigrant connection to New Orleans is through my Irish Heritage. Today, we credit Irish immigrants with making New Orleans into one of the world’s cosmopolitan cities, helping to shape the accent, and building the New Basin Canal. I always knew that some of my mom’s ancestors came from Ireland to New Orleans. I recently realized that their immigration coincided with the years of the “Potato Famine” or the “Great Hunger”.

    My grandmother’s grandmother was a first generation Irish New Orleanian born in 1861. Her parents were both born in Ireland, as was her eventual husband. Her family settled in the Irish Channel. She ran a boarding house on Chippewa Street, like many other Irish women who immigrated to New Orleans and other American cities.

    “Many Irish women, married and widowed, ran boarding houses as a means of support. Married Irish women could do so as well as sew on contract or help out in other kinds of family enterprise. The mother of Archbishop Williams of Boston had immigrated to the United States as a single woman and after marriage managed a boarding house while her husband worked as a blacksmith. When he died she ran both the boarding house and a grocery story in order to underwrite her son’s education. Some of the Irish boarding houses run by women also expanded into hotels and restaurants.”

    Hasia R. Diner, Erin’s Daughters in America: Irish Immigrant Women in the Nineteenth Century
    Early recognition that the epidemic affected strangers who were coming to town for Mardi Gras. Mardi Gras day in 1815 was February 7.
    Richmond Enquirer. March 1, 1815.

    New Basin Canal

    The mass immigration of Irish people in the mid-19th century coincided with the building of the New Basin Canal in New Orleans. “Substantial Irish communities exploded in size across the last half of the nineteenth century in San Francisco, Omaha, Memphis, New Orleans, Cleveland, Detroit, and Denver. The Irish showed up in large numbers wherever workers were needed,” Diner writes.

    In the 1830s and 1840s, they hadn’t yet figured out how Yellow Fever spread. But they knew it killed many people who did not grow up in New Orleans. The nickname “The Stranger’s Disease” appeared during this era. They chose to hire Irish people to dig the canal because the cost of losing enslaved people who may die during the construction was greater than the cost of paying Irishmen to dig. They did not also lose an asset when an Irish person died. The Irish had no defenses against the tropical disease. A coinciding cholera epidemic caused the death of 8,000 or more Irish immigrants digging the canal. Ghost stories will tell you that they buried them where the fell — under the sidewalks lining Ponchartrain Boulevard today.

    The Lighthouse Museum

    The New Canal Museum is located in the lighthouse at the mouth of the New Basin Canal. This is the only portion of the canal that remains today. Before the mid-20th century when it was filled, the canal cut from the lake to the area near where the Superdome is today. There was a turning basin at the end. The canal made it easy to move goods into the city using the lake as a shortcut. The turning basin made it possible for large barges to turn around instead of having to back out of the canal.

    Display about how many women Lighthouse Keepers served at this location.

    The museum is where I learned about the Victorian hinges still used all over New Orleans. There are images of the lighthouse completely destroyed during hurricanes, but the hinges remain locked in place.

    This location is also unique in how many women served. A significant portion of the tour focused on these special women.

    I signed up to visit the New Canal Museum through the New Orleans Public Library’s Culture Pass. There is a volunteer tour guide who is extremely knowledgeable about the lighthouse, the canal, and New Orleans. He provides a free tour. He also knew about the Irish influence on New Orleans, including pointing me to to the Celtic Cross Memorial on Pontchartrain Boulevard, which I will share in a coming post.

    Irish New Orleans: Other options for learning more about the Irish influence on New Orleans

    New Canal Lighthouse Museum

    Celtic Cross Memorial on Pontchartrain Boulevard

    Irish Cultural Museum

    St. Patrick’s Church

    Gallier House and Gallier Hall

    Irish Channel

    Irish New Orleans Trivia

    James Gallier was born James Gallagher in Ireland.

    Alexander O’Reilly, an Irish mercenary at the service of the Spanish crown, was the Spanish governor who murdered the Frenchmen and gave the famous street its name.

    The New Orleans Revolt of 1768 in The Derby Mercury Derby Derbyshire, England April 6, 1770 Page 1
    The New Orleans Revolt of 1768 in The Derby Mercury Derby Derbyshire, England April 6, 1770 Page 1

    Margaret the Bread Lady was an Irish immigrant whose time in New Orleans was so impactful that a statue of her at the intersection of Prytania and Camp streets was one of the first public statues of a woman in the country.

    Margaret the Bread Lady
    Margaret the Bread Lady between 1890-1901
    Margaret the Bread Lady in 2024

    Delphine LaLaurie was born Delphine MaCarty. Her great grandfather was a captain in the Irish regiment of Albemarle who escaped the tyranny of the English kings to France and became a knight of St. Louis. Delphine’s grandfather came to Louisiana from France in 1732.

    Source:

    Diner, Hasia R. Erin’s Daughters in America: Irish Immigrant Women in the Nineteenth Century. The Johns Hopkins University Press © 1983 Baltimore, Maryland.

    Lea Pearl

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  • Musee de F. P. C.: Museum Review

    Display of prominent Free People of Color in the Museum.

    Free People of Color Prospered in New Orleans

    Of all the museums I’ve visited recently, the Musee de F. P. C., or the Free People of Color Museum, was by far the most informative experience. In celebration of Black History Month, this is your sign to learn more about those responsible for all the things you love about New Orleans.

    New Orleans had one of the largest and most prosperous communities of Free People of Color before the Civil War. The Treme is sometimes referred to as the first Black neighborhood in the United States. The neighborhood along Bayou Road and Esplanade Avenue still features prominent mansions, many of which were homes of free people of color. Black businesses have purchased many of these homes and reclaimed them in an act of resistance. The Free People of Color Museum is located in one such mansion.

    The museum requires a guided tour with your admission, but it is more like a performance. My guide was an outstanding storyteller who provided historical facts, and offered emotional testimony, in character, to provide the shading facts need for perspective.

    I learned more in a brief tour than all my history classes combined. From Edmund Dede and Norbert Rillieux, geniuses in their fields who eventually chose to leave New Orleans because of deteriorating conditions for people of color, to Marie Laveau and Henriette Delille, women who defied the expectations of their place in society to reign in our time as queens of their chosen vocations.

    Black History playlist on YouTube

    Very Important Free Person of Color

    Coincidentally, I was joined on my tour by four descendants of Edmund Dede. They were family, cousins, but seemed to be meeting for the first time. Two had fair complexions. They would be perceived as white people and seemingly did not know about their African heritage until recently. The two others had dark complexions. This dichotomy of family is a living representation of the myth of race. Our guide made it a point to remind the fair faction that they are Black more than once, which I took to be a welcoming gesture. It was also a very real example of how physical characteristics and ancestry do not align neatly.

    The guide also pointed out several other prominent free people of color who were indistinguishable from white people during their time. The blending yielded beauty, which led to the regulations around what free women of color could wear. This included the requirement of a tignon to cover their hair. The tignon was ostensibly to provide an easy way to distinguish women of color from white women since skin color was unreliable. However, it also was an attempt to dampen their exotic beauty so that they would not tempt white men. But these were the same people who, through endless ingenuity, purchased themselves to find freedom. Many decorated themselves with the tignon so ornately that they subversively turned the hinderance into an asset. This is only one of the stories of resistance you can learn at the Musee de F. P. C.

    If you have any interest in 19th century New Orleans, visit the Musee de F. C. P. There is so much more to understand. You can book tickets online.

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    • Mardi Gras Memoirs: The Secret Parade
    • Red Light Liz and Joe the Whipper
    • Cabbage for Money, Black Eyed Peas for Luck
    • Two Odd Fellows
    • Museum Review: The Germaine Wells Mardi Gras Museum at Arnaud’s

    Lea Pearl

    • Architecture
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    • Catholic New Orleans
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    • Storyville
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  • Free New Orleans

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    Lea Pearl

    • Architecture
    • Bulbancha
    • Cast Iron
    • Catholic New Orleans
    • Family History
    • Food
    • French Quarter
    • Garden District
    • Gay New Orleans
    • Ghosts of New Orleans
    • Hurricanes
    • Italian/Sicilian New Orleans
    • Le Grippe
    • Mardi Gras
    • Museum
    • New Orleans
    • New Orleans Fires
    • New Orleans Voodoo
    • Notes from the Field
    • Royal Street
    • Storyville
    • Traditions
    • United States
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New Orleans Deep Tours

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what really happened.

lea@noladeeptours.com

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